Miso-infused lamb with fava beans, bulgur tabbouleh and kanzuri vinaigrette made its way onto the menu at EsterEv last May, effectively distilling the essence of spring onto a single hand-thrown ceramic plate.
The dish, a symphony of funky, spicy, mild and complex umami flavors, united over a standout foundation of tender lamb sourced from Steve Pinnow‘s Pinn-Oak Farms in Delevan.
Chef Dan Jacobs swears by the lamb, calling it the best in the country, but said the product is no longer a guarantee, due to the intensifying effects of climate change.
“This year we had to shift off of lamb and into a non-local duck from the East Coast because [Pinnow] can’t raise his lambs to where they should be — the field where they graze is underwater,” said Jacobs, who co-owns EsterEv with business partner Dan Van Rite. “You can’t do anything about it, and it’s just stunted his ability to get his product to market.”
Jacobs, a chef of nearly 30 years, has always paired his professional work with a streak of activism, focusing on causes ranging from pandemic aid to childhood hunger. Upon being diagnosed with Kennedy’s disease in 2016, Jacobs began channeling his energy into raising awareness for the rare, neuromuscular condition.
Since then, his dedication to social causes has continued to gain momentum alongside his career. After amassing a sizeable online platform following his finalist run on season 21 of “Top Chef,” Jacobs felt a responsibility to engage further in his advocacy.