After eight years of operating two nights a week out of DanDan, this under-the-grid enterprise was slated to open in a new, solo home sometime in March. Whether it would expand its hours and modify its menu format were up in the air at press time; both were possibilities. The new Bay View digs (which the troubled C-viche vacated last year) will give EsterEv its own bar and patio – all representing the owners’ readiness to bring this concept to a wider audience. The tasting menu is eight courses, small portions imaginatively created and gorgeously presented. A few I’m still thinking about months later are caviar, salsify, onion and kombu on a pretzelized éclair; and a crespelle (crepe) of beef oxtail, sunchokes and spinach.
